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When Yves Saint Laurent first arrived in Marrakech in February 1966, the city was still a secret passed quietly among a coterie of artists and wanderers. He and his partner Pierre Bergé checked into La Mamounia - then a faded remnant of its glamorous past - and within days, they had bought their first home: Dar el-Hanch, the House of the Snake, named for a large serpent Saint Laurent painted across its living room wall.

I describe a wild and sea-carved gateway, evoking a sense of awe and humility.a month

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